'Fit Checking Dries Van Noten's Last Show

What everyone wore to the most anticipated event of Men's Fashion Week.

When I found out that fashion designer Dries Van Noten was retiring this summer, I did everything in my power to get to his final runway show, which took place on Saturday night during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. I’ve always been an admirer of his work, which is more affordable than most luxury houses, and nearly shed a tear as I rewatched the touching 2017 documentary about him beforehand.

Of course, hundreds of people showed up yesterday night to pay their respects. I spotted designers Thom Browne and Diane Von Furstenberg in the crowd, as well as other members of the “Antwerp Six,” including Walter Van Beirendonck and Ann Demeulemeester. (All the VIP “Vans” and “Vons.”) Unlike other shows, this one was for the fans, and everyone showed up in their best Dries. It was a sea of bright colors and opulent prints. Below, I ‘fit checked the ‘fit checkers.

Beka Gvishiani of @stylenotcom

“Ten years ago, I was in Paris. I had a 350 Euros total budget, and I went to a department store. I wanted to buy a few pieces because, at that time, prices were different. I see these pants discounted at 350 Euros. They fit so perfectly, so I said, Okay, maybe I should just get one thing. Quality over quantity. I did it, and I didn’t take them off for years because they go with everything. Ten years later, I’m in Antwerp standing in front of [Dries] to interview him before the show. I thought about taking a book to get his signature, but I always wear white shirts, so I thought, Why don’t I take a white Dries shirt and have him sign that? He said, “Leave it with me and I will do something special.” He did this and sent it to me two days ago.”    

Amanda Murray a.k.a @londongirlinnyc

“The thing with Dries—I call him Papa Dries—is that I feel a lot of warmth in his clothes. It’s almost like a kind of parental warmth and love. I feel very myself when I wear his clothes, moreso than any other designer. Someone from his team said this to me a few years ago: You didn’t choose Dries; Dries chose you. I took that to mean that you feel a pull towards the clothes; it’s a symbiotic thing. I’m devastated [that he’s retiring]. It’s the end of a chapter for me, personally.”

Tim Blanks and José Criales-Unzueta, writers

Tim in Dries. José in a Christopher John Rogers shirt and Thom Browne bag.

“This shirt is from a collection that [Dries] designed for MyThreresa. It launched with a party at Axel Vervoordt’s castle, which makes you think: This is why I work in fashion: Because I’m going to get invited to Axel Vervoordt’s castle. It was an incredible collection because it was so detailed and rich. For a retailer collab, it was so him, and I really wish I’d bought more of it. I have more pieces by Dries pieces in my closet than by any other designer—like from the 90s. I bought so much from the [Fall 2006] Bryan Ferry collection. There were these silver tarnished shoes that got even more beautiful as you wore them. I don’t know where those are now… I don’t fit into much of it anymore but I kept it all. I like the fact that he appeals to the adventurer in you; the exoticist. I love the shows. I love the intelligence. The vision is so complete, from the invitation to the soundtrack to the collection, to the shop where you buy the clothes, to the candies in the shop… I don’t think there’s ever been anyone who’s been able to do that as well. I’m so happy for him. For something like this to happen on his terms… He hasn’t been fired. He hasn’t been bought by a company that wanted to replace him. It’s rare.” — Tim Blanks

Suzy Menkes, writer

“This is one of my many, many, many Dries outfits. It’s fairly new. But I’m still wearing things from 1996, 2001… I put them away so they have a sort of rest period and then I get them out again. I don’t know what I’m going to do [when he retires]. I know his team is going to do a wonderful job, but I think he had the right attitude towards women—no shrinking violet kind of clothes, but things that you can walk and move in. Never something that’s too foo-foo and unsuitable. He’s an exceptional person.”

Jian DeLeon, Nordstrom men's fashion director

“I think this jacket is from the Spring 2020 collection. It’s survived numerous closet cleanouts but it’s one of those pieces that’s just so special. Oh look, there’s [someone else] wearing the shirt version. Honestly, the weather aligned with the five days a year that you can wear this jacket because it’s such an interesting material. I was just like, The world has made it so that I could wear this jacket to Dries’ final show. It’s definitely a statement. It’s street style bait. The first time I wore it, my wife sent me a photo of Will Smith dressed as a sunflower on The Fresh Prince to give me a little bit of levity. But it’s such a signature Dries piece. It reminds me of why I fell in love with Dries as a designer—his use of fabrics and patterns and his ability to make you want to wear things that make a statement, that make you feel great, and that make you feel like there is some beauty in the world.”

Steff Yotka, head of digital at SSENSE

“I’m 90% sure this [Spring 2019] Verner Panton-print shirt is the first Dries thing I ever bought. I got it the first time I came to Paris Fashion Week for work and was so taken. It was from the men’s store. I tried on every single item and I was like, I need to leave with this shirt. So I kind of have a tradition that every time I go to Paris I walk there and buy something. The skirt is from a different trip, and I got this bag two days ago. The jacket is Chopova Lowena Spring-Summer 2025. It’s a sample. Only five will be made and they’re exclusive to Dover Street Market Paris. The shoes are Marsèll. And my socks are from the drugstore.”  

Jeremy O’Harris, playwright

“I love the fact that the clothes move with you. This [suit and blue sequined top] are from a recent season. It’s really beautiful and relaxed, and it makes me feel hot. It makes me feel like it’s the year I was born.”

Yours Truly

As I was packing for my trip, I looked in my closet and realized that I actually don’t own that many Dries pieces. A lot of them are too oversized for me, but I’m still really attracted to the brand. On my first day in Paris, I went straight to the store and bought these green sneakers, which I’ve been eyeing for a while and are now mostly sold out. I got lucky. Rumor has it they’re coming out with pink!!! Also, they run slightly big, but I’m in between sizes, so I went with my regular size and just wore them with thick socks. My pants are Rhodolirion (found at Nepenthes in New York) and my shirt is Comme Des Garçons via the Dover Street Market sample sale. Clips are Simone Rocha. I tried to play with transparency and embellishment. Elegant comfort. The Dries way!

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“Tonight is many things, but it is not a grand finale. […] I love my job, I love doing fashion shows, and sharing fashion with people. Creating is about leaving something that lives on. My sense of this moment is how it is not only mine, but ours, always.” — Dries Van Noten