I <3 Milano

What I like to do in my favorite city.

I’ve said this before, but Milan is my Disneyland. When NYMag sent me there in 2018 to cover Fashion Week for the first time, it changed my life, which is to say that it unleashed the Lady-Gaga-I’m-Italian-meme [insert pinched hand emoji] in me and I’ve found an excuse to go back pretty much every year since.

There is no city I’ve visited more, and no city that feels so specifically designed for my pleasure and amusement than Milan. It’s got everything: Drool-worthy interiors, a borderline religious devotion to fashion, nice restaurants staffed by people who (generally) aren’t mean, and good-looking Uber drivers in suits. What I love most about Milan is that it is UNABASHEDLY FANCY. Packing my suitcase for a trip is a thrill. No jeans. No sweats. Just Prada. Amen.

Below is what I send people when they ask me for my Milan list. To be clear: I’ve visited almost exclusively to cover Fashion Week and, most recently, for Salone del Mobile, the annual furniture fair. So, my view of the city is both limited and specific. I’m not telling you how to spend your time there; I’m telling you how I’ve spent *mine.*

In an attempt to broaden my horizons, I asked two actual Italians, writer and editor Elisa Carassai, who currently lives in Milan, and

Naomi Accardi

of Systemarosa, who lived there for many years, to share some of their favorite spots. I also recommend reading

JENNY SAIS QUOI

if you don’t already. She’s living the dream!

I think this list is worth ONE MILLION EUROS, which is why you have to be a paid subscriber to see it in full. Also, recommendations are sacred.

Okay! Andiamo!

Where I’ve Stayed

• The first few times I went to Milan for Fashion Week, I stayed at the Rosa Grand near the Duomo. It’s pretty expensive now, but if you’re looking for something nice and central that’s not trendy, it’s solid. One of my fondest memories is when I ordered room service and a guy showed up with a tray of bolognese, took one look at my desk covered in stuff, and said in a thick accent: “Should I put it on the bed?” Si.

Bed Bolognese is now a tradition.

• I’ve also been put up by fancy brands at the Principe Di Savoie and the Palazzo Parigi, both of which are classics and way over my budget. Marble for daysssss.