I Sniffed a Wall at the Met and I Liked It
Inside the Costume Institute's new show.
Last year, a young visitor to the Karl Lagerfeld exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art apparently asked a security guard why she couldn’t touch anything. It was a good question—one that’s said to have inspired Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton’s next show, “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion,” which opened for previews on Monday morning before the Met Gala.
Bolton’s goal was to bring some of the “sleeping beauties,” i.e., the very old, extremely delicate pieces in the Costume Institute’s archives, out of storage and back to life with the help of technology and by activating visitors’ senses. “You’re welcome to touch the wall and the dress,” whispered a security guard, referring to a 3D-printed floral installation. Various scents were pumped out of clear plastic tubes in other rooms, and ASMR-type sounds, like the rustling of a mid-18th century silk taffeta dress, played over the loudspeakers.
“I feel like I’m at a children’s museum,” said a former coworker at one point. Behind her was a Loewe coat that had magically sprouted reeds of grass. (The organizing theme was nature, with sections divided between Earth, Air, and Water.) Going into the exhibit, my hopes for “Sleeping Beauties,” which was reportedly a “last-minute backup plan” after a John Galliano retrospective fell through, were basement-level low. What was it even about?? But as I watched Derek Blasberg press his nose up against a white scratch-and-sniff wall and take a big whiff, I had to smile. I love the Natural History Museum; why not bring some of that energy across the park?
The last time I was moved by a Costume Institute show was in October of 2020, when “About Time: Fashion and Duration” opened after months of lockdown. It was eerily prescient and also catered to the real “fashion nerds” in the crowd, in the sense that it wasn’t pure Instagram bait; it invited you to get up close and actually learn more about what you were looking at. I was pleasantly surprised to find that “Sleeping Beauties” took a similar approach and also made an effort to engage visitors with no fashion knowledge at all.
It didn’t always succeed. There were too many mentions of molecules, and some of the techy elements felt gimmicky. (Of course, there was an AI bit.) I’m also not entirely convinced that the “smell experience” is legit, but I’ve decided that it doesn’t really matter. The idea that a “smell molecule” found on an old blouse or a hat could tell you everything from what a person ate while wearing it to how much they were stressed allows your imagination to run wild, and that’s the point.
Overall, I enjoyed sniffing and feeling my way through the show. I saw a lot of pieces I hadn’t before in addition to old favorites. I learned something new about dyes and fabrics and sewing techniques. I also thought the exhibit did a nice job of underscoring the fact that clothes only get more interesting the more you wear them, not less.
I know the Costume Institute has had a rough few years, but its shows are what convinced me to work in fashion in the first place. I hope this is a “reawakening” for everyone involved.
And now a quick Met Gala red carpet review
The fact that both Zendaya and Bad Bunny, who co-chaired the event this year, AND Kim Kardashian showed up in Margiela by John Galliano confirms for me that the exhibit was originally about him. Anna is still hellbent on resuscitating his image. First, with a Condé Nast-produced documentary, (which got terrible reviews), and then maybe with an exhibit next year? What’s her plan? Is this all to set him up for the top job at Chanel? I’m at a loss.
Loewe sponsored the gala this year and Jonathan Anderson freaked it despite a confusing theme that Anna Wintour literally apologized for on the Today show. Everyone on his team looked amazing.
Taylor Russell in a dress that looks like it’s MADE OUT OF WOOD! Greta Lee with a mullet! Luca Guadagnino may have actually looked the swaggiest?? His boys rose to the challenge, though. I loved Josh O’Connor’s split tail and Mike Faist’s turnip lapel. I’d kill to be on this bus...
Something I feel like we don’t talk about enough is the influence that the Met Gala has on the collections. Surely, Jonathan Anderson has known what the theme would be for a while and has designed accordingly. Anna’s power!
Also, I agree with
’s take about neck beards.Cole Escola looked adorable as hell in Thom Browne.
Colman Domingo looked lovely in Willy Chavarria.
And this outfit wasn’t on theme at all, but I would wear Willow Smith’s cropped blazer.
HONORABLE MENTIONS: Chloe Sevigny in Dilara Findikoglu and Demi Moore bc she’s Demi Moore! Plus, Tom Ford wearing Saint Laurent (and not Tom Ford). A dig at the brand’s new designer? Or a chance to be a fan for once? He told livestream viewers at home: “I’m not designing anymore, so I said, Why not?”
GRIPES: There were so many incredible hats in the exhibit, including that Balenciaga cabbage one above. Why didn’t more people wear hats?! (Points for Rosalia.)
Also: WHERE WERE THE SICK PRADA FLORALS!?!!?!? Huge missed opportunity. Boo.
Okay, goodnight!
NEXT TIME: My Milan guide is really long, but I’m ready to share it now.
I appreciated your take on this! To me, Anna is the black hole that swallowed up Vogue, the Met Gala and much of the industry, and its stifling. Rosalia ate, tho.
Rosalia for the win🫰🏼🫰🏾🫰🏽🖤