Suit Shopping With Writer Jazmine Hughes
The Tár of it all.
It’s very possible that I knew Jazmine’s award-winning writing before I knew Jazmine. Because I’ve read everything she’s written for the Times, where she’s worked since 2015, I know that she recently learned how to skateboard and how to swim. I know that she loves Spuds MacKenzie; that Whoopi Goldberg is her style icon and life coach; and that Mayor Adams should watch what he does around her. But as her friend, I also know her as a woman perpetually in search of a good suit.
Finding a good suit is hard, especially if you’re someone with as juicy a bottom as Jazmine (her words, but can confirm). We both were so inspired by what we saw at New York Fashion Week, though, specifically Ayo Edebiri of The Bear in Proenza Schouler and Sarita Choudhury of And Just Like That in Kallmeyer, that we decided it was prime time to see what was out there. Maybe both our suit dreams could finally come true…
The Goal: Look like Ayo and Sarita
Jazmine DM’ed me the Proenza look on the left in a “fit of passion,” and the Kallmeyer look on the right is [head exploding emoji]. I’ve been told that Sarita took this photo with Caitlin Burke on the spot when a random Dalmatian walked down the street. Can you imagine??
The Plan: Visit Kallmeyer and Proenza Schouler and try on everything they wore.
Left: Kallmeyer Renée Button-Up, $465. Right: Kallmeyer Mia Shawl Collar Blazer in Tuxedo, $725. Sarita also wore the Patch Pocket Split Hem Trousers, $495.
Left: Proenza Schouler Wool Twill Jacket, $2,290 and Crushed Matte Satin Shirt, $890. Right: Proenza Schouler Wool Twill Trousers, $1,290.
The Results:
Okay, seriously….???? This look ruined Jazmine’s life as well as my own because now we can never settle for anything less. Uncanny!
Designer Daniella Kallmeyer was generous enough to let us play dress-up at her store on Orchard Street—and borrow her dog, Juaco, for a quick photoshoot, as well as her sunglasses. At one point, she styled a sweater around Jazmine’s neck and we both screamed “Tár! TÁAAAR!!!” so loudly that everyone in the store turned (and probably fled).
The experience left Jazmine transformed and angry at the truth: better clothes make you look better. She said both the Tár collar and the alternative—a poplin white button-up with a subtle tie of the same fabric—made her look like someone who could be “seen standing next to Jenna Lyons on RHONY,” which was the goal.
The trousers, though gorgeous, “didn’t cloak her hips” as much as Jazmine wanted. But Kallmeyer’s more relaxed, chartreuse suit pants (above) offered the looser fit we were searching for, especially paired with the matching suit jacket and, importantly, nothing else— a look that prompted the following texts from one of Jazmine’s goy friends:
Personally, I had to walk out of Kallmeyer with the black Léa Slim Blouse, which has a matching floral-print tie. I felt validated when I saw that Marie Claire editor-in-chief, Nikki Ogunnaike wore the brown version in Milan this week.
“I’ve been watching this brand for a while and was so excited to meet Daniella during NYFW,” Nikki told me in a DM. “There’s something very smart and low-key sexy about her designs that I love. I’m not a fussy dresser, so a blouse like this, with its built-in tie, adds a quick and easy but cool touch to my vintage Levi’s jeans.”
Okay, back to NYC: At Proenza, Jazmine and I had a similarly life-ruining experience because these pants seemed to solve the leading problems of modern life: climate change and the matter of Jazmine’s hips. They were roomy up top yet tapered at the ankle, and luxe enough to (maybe) push Jazmine to cancel her birthday trip to London so that she could buy these pants, instead.
“SHOP RAT QUEER VOICES: Emilia told me to think of getting dressed as 'playing dress up,' and the simple flip recontextualized how I present myself. Once I discovered press-on nails, I started to embrace 'femme drag' as a look, which I do when I'm going out to Dinner With The Girls, or every 6 months when I welcome male attention. In a suit, therefore, I want androgyny—to feel hard and sharp where something soft has been, which mostly means I want to cover up my ass." - Jazmine Hughes, lesbian American
In conclusion: it looks like Jazmine is getting a new suit for her 32nd birthday.
Phone a Friend: Willa Bennett
When brainstorming who to ask for some advice about suits, Highsnobiety editor-in-chief, Willa Bennett immediately came to mind. Willa has made suits and ties her signature, and she almost never buys them online. Since Kallmeyer and Proenza’s suits were a bit over our budget, I wanted to know if she had any good vintage recs to share, in addition to the names of other designers she loves.
What are some of your favorite stores to shop for suits?
Ralph Lauren makes the best suits. Period. Their flagship store uptown is the place. Second is Dries (men's, of course). They have a beautiful new-ish store in Los Angeles on La Cienega. It feels like a museum. I could spend hours there. Other places: Hamlet's Vintage in the West Village (great men's suit collection and luxury ties for around $50-100). Stella Dallas has a great men's section, most of which is very affordable. Squaresville in Los Angeles. I love Saint Sintra suits—most of the cuts are more feminine than my typical style. Bode. Simone Rocha. Gucci. Saint Laurent. Loewe.
When you’re trying on a suit, what are some things you’re looking for in terms of fit, silhouette, etc.? What factors should shoppers keep in mind?
I wear primarily men's suits, so I usually need to get them tailored. Since a suit is an investment, I do think it's worth getting it tailored. Unless you're one of those people who magically fit into items. I look for comfort; I HATE when it's too tight. I look for shape and fabric quality. When I buy a suit, I really expect to have it for the rest of my life... so it needs to be worth the $$$.
Some people might feel too timid to wear a suit and tie to an occasion other than a wedding or a fancy event. Any advice for styling for everyday?
I love a suit for a casual coffee. It's all about how you style it. Vintage shirt. Colorful socks under rolled-up pants. Studded belt. Button-up with a shirt under. No tie. Two ties. Bow tie. Sneakers.
What We’re Listening To In Our Suits:
Jazmine: "Tighten Up, Pt. 1" by Archie Bell and the Drells
Willa: “Archetype” by Omar Apollo
Emilia: The Tár soundtrack, obviously.
NEXT WEEK: I’m clearing my schedule to look more closely at the new Prada collection.