Five NYFW Looks I'd Actually Wear
Plus, all the intel I gathered while out and about.
When people ask me about what I saw at New York Fashion Week and if any of it was good, I usually reply that for someone in my position, it’s not really about the clothes; it’s a social occasion where there happens to be clothes. When you look at it that way, it’s rarely a letdown. I schmoozed. I gossiped. I got a sense of what people want (to quit their jobs) and who they think is important (Ella Emhoff). Plus, I saw some stuff I’d like to wear! Below is my dispatch for paid subscribers, which includes an Alaïa store tip and a Sandy Liang playlist, plus details about what I wore and what I’d add to my cart.
What I Want to Wear
I’m really enjoying just going to shows where I have some sort of relationship with the designer and/or actually buy and want to wear their clothes. You don’t need to see everything!
1. Zankov
I profiled designer Henry Zankov earlier this summer for W magazine and love what he’s doing with knitwear. Not only is he the sweetest person, but I also think his clothes are cheerful, comfortable, and thoughtfully made. It was hard to choose a look (so much green) from the latest collection, but I think this one is my favorite for its texture.
2. Diotima
I wrote about Diotima and designer Rachel Scott’s use of lace for T magazine recently. Her collections are delicate but not too precious. They feel personal and feminine, and there was an effortless cool to her clothes this season, even with the more formal pieces.
3. Colleen Allen
Another designer I’ve written about, Colleen Allen, has a Victorian, witchy aesthetic that, however alluring, doesn’t necessarily seem like my personal style at first glance. Her silhouettes are so flattering, though, and the materials she uses are so luxurious that I’m consistently drawn to her clothes. I think I’d get a ton of wear out of this reversible blazer.
I also don’t know where the heck I’m going in a velvet “summer opera coat,” as Colleen described it, but I aspire to be someone who has this in their wardrobe.
4. Kallmeyer
I’ve written a lot about Kallmeyer’s suiting, so it was nice to see Daniella make a return to the runway with some beautifully draped gowns and tops that didn’t all come with matching ties. Of course, I’m still drawn to her suits, though.
Boys can find a similar leather jacket by Connor McKnight, here! Good stuff.
5. Lauren Manoogian
Should I wear a color that isn’t black??? Inspiring. I also need to address the fact that Lauren Manoogian's party on Thursday night had the BEST LOOKING crowd I’d seen all fashion week, mostly because very few people in the crowd seemed to work in fashion.
Honorable Mentions:
I didn’t put Alaïa up there because it’s not an American brand. Upon closer inspection, I also don’t really think many of the looks are that wearable (and certainly not affordable). But it’s still the brand I wish I could buy the most, and I loved the old-school glamour of this look.
I’m always excited for a Rachel Comey show, and was into the fact that she did more formalwear this season. This look feels very Armani to me.
Mike of Eckhaus Latta loves an agnès b. cardi, and this collection included lots of snaps and even a snappy leather bag, which I might need.
I think this Rachel Antonoff set that Kate Berlant and Jacqueline Novak wore at the show is very sweet. (Also has matching pants!)
Apparently, “everyone’s talking about Cristaseya.” I like the looks of their luxurious loungy sets, which remind me a bit of Attersee as well. I want to wear an outfit like this with these men’s Prada slippers.
What I Actually Wore
On the first day, I coordinated like crazy with an &Daughter sweater that the brand sent me, a vintage Prada skirt, green socks, and my green Shop Rat tote. (I’ll start taking pre-orders in a few weeks!) On top, I wore a jacket I got from Muji for $70, which appears to be back in stock, and Dries Van Noten sexy librarian heels. I placed a personal order for a Zankov sweater and skirt, which I wore to the show. Kallmeyer sent me this leather dress, which fits like a glove. (See above.) I wore a vintage Prada tunic that I’m pretty sure is fake to a Zenga dinner uptown, but I also don’t really care because I like it. And I don’t have a pic, but on Thursday night, I wore a Maria McManus dress to a Roman and Williams dinner at La Mercerie, and someone called me “hot,” which hasn’t happened in a while, so thank you, Maria McManus.
What I Listened To
Below is the Sandy Liang show playlist, which is always full of bops.
“Diamond Veins” (feat. Sarah Rebecca) by French 79
“Lucifer” by A.G. Cook
“Hold onto Me” by Yullola
“A Real Hero” by College & Electric Youth *This one brought me BACK
“I Saw U” by Swank Mami
Kallmeyer also opened its show with “Something More” by Róisín Murphy and followed up with sexy songs like “Wondrous Place” by Drug Store Ramones and “Garmonbozia” by Flying Lotus.
What I Gabbed About
At a brand lunch hosted by Alexandra Gucci Zarini, I sat next to an editor and stylist named Olga, who started talking to me about Haider Ackermann joining Tom Ford as creative director. She said the second she learned about the designer’s new job, she started looking for Ackermann pieces on the RealReal, thinking they might increase in value. Others had the same idea, and a look she’d been pining after was instantly snagged! She warned me that his drapey silhouette could be challenging if you're not Tilda Swinton or Timothee Chalamet, but when I got home, I found a few things that seemed promising.
On that note,
hosted their At Present jewelry event in a full ivory Zoran look from the RealReal. Another good saved search.When I visited the Brant Foundation to see the Alaïa collection up close after the show, a publicist shared with me some great intel, which is that you can bring your mesh shoes to the store to be repaired/cleaned.
I sat next to writer Mattie Kahn at the Kallmeyer show, and she told me about this genius-sounding online marketplace called uShip, where you state your needs, and various movers send you quotes. She says to read all the reviews before hiring someone, but uShip holds your money in case they don’t show or something happens. Someone named Rob, who specializes in moving grand pianos and aquariums, was scheduled to come to help her with a table for a reasonable price. She was thrilled!
At the end of the day, all New Yorkers want to talk about is real estate. Do we think Chloë Sevigny found a sublet?? Based on her recent interview with Emily Gould, it sounds like she needs a place to stay while her apartment is being combined with another one—a very New York problem to have. Unrelated, but I want the Fidan Novruzova bag she wore to her husband’s opening.
What I Wrote
On top of writing these newsletters and putting together an event, I’ve also been type-type-typing away for a number of different publications. I profiled emerging designer Colleen Allen for T magazine. I also interviewed Courrèges designer Nicolas Di Felice, who is truly the most charming person ever, for the magazine’s men’s issue and contributed to this incredible package about men’s shows. I played a fun game of “Fantasy Front Row” for Dora at 10 magazine USA and a wild game of “Would You Rather” for the Cut’s first standalone print issue. I wrote about character accessories for Grazia UK and the 60s trend for Elle. I recapped the week for Harper’s Bazaar, and finally, I interviewed stylish people on the subway throughout for Gothamist. (So fun!!) I also have a few more exciting stories coming out, including two covers! Whew. I’m very grateful and completely exhausted. Bye!
I want to be a writer with a grand piano and an aquarium
Ooh the shop rat tote is so cute