Repair Month Scratchpad: Sewing Scissors, Dyeing Tips, and More

Helpful odds and ends I've gathered so far.

This post is part of Repair Month, a series dedicated to taking better care of stuff instead of buying more of it. Join the discussion thread here.

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Something I really enjoy about Repair Month is how collaborative it is. A team effort! Over the last few weeks, I’ve gathered too many good tips to fit into a single dispatch. So, below are some odds and ends, including a designer’s favorite sewing scissors, expert tips on dyeing clothing, and a repair party idea. Plus, I try to answer some of your questions myself.

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A designer’s favorite sewing scissors

Last year, Liz Giardina, the creative director of Another Tomorrow, told me about a pair of “teeny folding thread scissors” that are her go-to for mending, specifically patching and darning clothes. They’re small enough that she can even get them through TSA to sew on long flights. “I always bring sewing projects on trips because I find it meditative and relaxing to sew, especially on a day flight home from Europe,” she says. In addition to mending, she’ll embroider her initials and her family’s initials on clothes, plus hidden messages sometimes. “For me, clothing holds memories and love; it’s a pleasure to care for them and hopefully pass them along to my children.”

Dritz Folding Scissors, $5.

While I had Liz on the line, I also asked her to share her favorite mending professionals. Her go-to dry cleaner is Kingbridge, her go-to tailor is Eroika Cleaners & Tailors, and her go-to cobbler is Magic Joe Shoe Repair in her Brooklyn neighborhood. Plus, check out Another Tomorrow’s new Soho store, which now offers a resale service and archival products. 

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Expert advice for dyeing clothes

Many of you submitted questions about dyeing fabric, so I asked Kalen Kaminski, a teacher, consultant, and founder of Upstate, a Chinatown-based creative studio that hosts various natural dye workshops, if she could answer a few. (The next workshop is Sunday, January 26. Get your tickets here! I’ve done one before, and it’s fun and informative.) Upstate also launched an overdye program that allows you to send in items you want to reinvigorate, from wedding dresses to coats to couches (see below). Just send them an email or stop by in person.

A couch dyed by Kalen of Upstate.

Shop Rat reader: Can you dye cashmere?

Kalen: Cashmere can be dyed, and we do this at our studio. Because the fibers are so fine, dyeing cashmere requires a delicate, slow process to avoid felting.

What about a suede jacket?

Yes, we can do this as well. It's priced case-by-case, so I’d need to see in person.

What should someone keep in mind when dyeing white or lighter-colored garments at home? Is this different from dyeing darker garments?

Dyeing is similar to cooking because it involves measurements, heating, and ingredients. (That said, we always recommend keeping your dye pots separate from your cooking pots.) Save food scraps like avocado pits and onion skins to make dye on your stove for light-colored garments. Simply simmering onion skins for an hour will give you a nice golden/tan color, and simmering avocado pits will give you a lovely blush color. Dyeing small items like a top or napkins is easy at home, especially if you have outdoor space and a washing machine. However, when it comes to dyeing multiple or larger items, you need more space, and there's a greater chance of making a mess.

Can I re-dye garments with oil stains? I have stains on black jeans and a black sweatshirt. Can I make them more black? 

Typically, you can, but it depends on how deep the stain is in the fabric and the type of fabric. Overdyeing with a dark color will usually cover it up. I always recommend blotting the stain and using a gentle detergent to remove as much oil as possible, then rinsing it out with hot water to loosen the stain and fibers. Sometimes, I'll use a stain remover like OxiClean or a Tide stick before I start the dyeing process. Once I submerge the fabric in dye, I add salt, which acts almost like glue. It binds with the fibers to the color and helps enhance vibrancy. I also recommend washing black items with diluted white vinegar to help preserve the color. The vinegar stabilizes the dye molecules in the fabric. Our most popular request for overdyes is overdyeing black items.

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More reader questions:

• Laura Reilly of Magasin wants to know if she can re-pleat her Pleats Please pants. There is an amazing pleating place in the Garment District called Tom’s Sons, which is worth visiting just to see the equipment they use. But I asked some people who work for the brand, and it sounds like the best thing to do if your pleats are feeling loose is wash in cold water, twist tight, and lay to dry. If you’re paying to get your garment re-pleated, you might as well just buy another one, unfortunately.

• Sami Reiss of Snake wants to know if he can get his 1980s L.L. Bean boat tote handles fixed, but not with leather. I sent him to Eva Joan, and they said they could do it! It’s a great place to bring items with sentimental value and have the odd job done.

Sami’s vintage boat totes.

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Other reader resources

• For a denim repair guide, check out this one by Jane on Jeans.

• Standard & Strange, an independent retailer with locations in New York (NY), Berkeley (CA), and Santa Fe (NM), also offers a chain stitch hemming service.

• Eileen Fisher has a whole mended clothing section.

• Veja and Arc’teryx both offer in-store repairs.

• Officina del Poggio will re-sole your shoes and make them new again! (The pair in the video was worn for five years.)

• If you’re in New York and want to take sewing classes, I’d look into the Textile Arts Center, the Brooklyn Sewing Academy, and pattern-cutting courses at FIT.

• Last but certainly not least, a reader named Janna Morton hosted a “Repair Party” last year and wrote about the experience in her newsletter. I think it sounds like such a fun idea! Upstate also hosts private birthday parties, bridal showers, brand events, etc.

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NEXT TIME: Do you know how to sew a button? I don’t…